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你知道嗎？你每穿上一件新衣服地球就要受難一次！
	發(fā)起人：eging3　　回復(fù)數(shù)：1　　瀏覽數(shù)：4975　　最后更新：2022/9/28 20:56:30 by nihaota

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eging3 發(fā)表于 2017/4/13 18:02:49

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你知道嗎？你每穿上一件新衣服地球就要受難一次！

The environmental costs of creating clothes

你知道嗎？你每穿上一件新衣服地球就要受難一次！

LOOKING good can be bad for the planet. Massive amounts of energy, water and other resources are needed to make clothes. From the pesticides poured on cotton fields to the washes in which denim is dunked, making 1kg of fabric generates 23kg of greenhouse gases on average, reckons McKinsey, a consultancy. Because consumers keep almost every type of apparel only half as long as they did 15 years ago, these inputs go to waste faster than ever before. More than half of the fastest-fashion items made are chucked away within a year of production. But such rampant retail therapy costs the earth.

保持良好形象可能會(huì)對(duì)地球不利。制造服裝需要大量能量、水和其它資源。麥肯錫咨詢推測(cè)，從往棉花地上撒農(nóng)藥到棉布浸染，平均每1公斤布料就會(huì)產(chǎn)生23公斤溫室氣體。由于消費(fèi)者們穿每一種類型服裝的時(shí)間長(zhǎng)度僅是15年前的一半，因此這些投入成為廢料的速度要比以往更快。逾一半時(shí)尚服裝在生產(chǎn)一年內(nèi)就被扔棄。但是這種猖獗的零售方法卻讓地球付出了代價(jià)。

Global clothing production doubled between 2000 and 2014 as garment firms’ operations became more efficient, their production cycles sped up and shoppers got better bargains. Global clothing sales came to $1.8trn in 2015, according to Greenpeace, up from $1trn in 2002. Fast-fashion brands such as Zara, owned by Spain’s Inditex, now offer more than 20 lines a year; Sweden’s H&M manages up to 16. Making do and mending is out of fashion.

由于服裝公司操作變得更有效率、生產(chǎn)周期加快和購(gòu)物者可以獲得更為廉價(jià)的產(chǎn)品，全球服裝生產(chǎn)在2000年至2014年間翻了一番。據(jù)綠色和平組織介紹，全球服裝銷售從2002年的10美元漲到了18美元。像西班牙Inditex旗下的時(shí)尚品牌Zara，它現(xiàn)在每年有20多條生產(chǎn)線；瑞士的H&M有多達(dá)16條生產(chǎn)線。這使得縫縫補(bǔ)補(bǔ)已經(jīng)過(guò)時(shí)了。

It is not just the volume of clothes that have changed; processes have too. Cheap materials, such as polyester, are cheaper than natural ones. So almost all apparel today is made of a mix of materials—very often including polyester. Recycling requires separating it out, and that is is difficult. For one thing mechanical methods of recycling degrade fibres. And chemical methods are too expensive to be commercially viable; few clothing companies bother to research them. Shipping second-hand clothes off to countries in Africa and Asia is also a bust. Even if local markets are large enough to absorb them, the poorer quality of polyester-mixed garbs means they do not last.

不僅僅是服裝數(shù)量變化了，生產(chǎn)流程也改變了。廉價(jià)的材料，例如滌綸要比天然布料便宜。因此，現(xiàn)在幾乎所有的服裝都是由混合材料制成——往往包括滌綸。循環(huán)利用要求把其分離，但這是件難事。首先，機(jī)械循環(huán)方法降低纖維。而化學(xué)方法又過(guò)于昂貴，在經(jīng)濟(jì)上不可行。很少會(huì)有服裝公司不厭其煩地去研究它們。將二手服裝運(yùn)至亞非國(guó)家也會(huì)浪費(fèi)錢財(cái)。即便當(dāng)?shù)厥袌?chǎng)足夠容納它們，但是混有滌綸服裝的低質(zhì)意味著它們用不長(zhǎng)久。

Most big fashion firms do not bother to measure environmental impacts. But a few, stung by the industry’s previous scandals, are taking pre-emptive action. Encouraging people to do more with fewer items of clothing would help the planet most quickly. Good business practice will never go out of style.

大部分時(shí)尚企業(yè)不會(huì)費(fèi)心去衡量環(huán)境影響。但是受到行業(yè)之前丑聞?dòng)绊懙囊恍┢髽I(yè)正在提前采取措施。鼓勵(lì)人們更多地去減少布料使用能夠一針見血地幫助地球。良好的經(jīng)營(yíng)做法永遠(yuǎn)不會(huì)過(guò)時(shí)。

nihaota 發(fā)表于 2022/9/28 20:56:33

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